Wednesday, January 28, 2009

More photos

Mom and I on top of a small "mountain" in the sinai desert

My camel...he never spit once...camels do fart a lot though
Sunset over the Nile in Luxor

Tea in a Bedouin village


Riding camels...obviously

Dad killing me at cards

Mom and I in front of .... can you guess?

Our Bedouin guide making bread for breakfast

Mom and I in front of our candle lit campsite

Monday, January 26, 2009

Weekend getaway

Okay so the getaway wasn't so much mine as it was my friends' who came to stay with me while they visited Aswan.  Catherine, who I went to Siwa with, is leaving Egypt next Saturday, and her friend Joel is on a break from university here, so they came to visit.  They arrived on the train on Saturday morning and while they toured around the islands and west bank in Aswan I spent a few hours at work.  I should probably preface the rest of this post by saying that I also woke up Saturday morning and was unable to see across the Nile because of the thick dust that had settled over the city.  They had a great time and I went to my very dusty office.  By the end of the day my voice was on the verge of disappearing but I was otherwise having a great time.  I met them afterwork at a restaurant for some tea and cake with four Canadians they ran into while checking the opening times of the museum and then we got a taxi back into town for dinner.

I took the next day off and the three of us hoped in a microbus for the 4 hour ride to Abu Simbel (only 40km from the Sudanese border) which is on the shores of Lake Nasser.  It is the largest man made lake in the world, 310 miles long, and was created when they built the high dam in Aswan.  It pretty much flooded all of the land previously inhabited by the Nubians as well as covering up numerous historical sites.  The temples of Hathor and Ramses II were two of 14 structures that were taken apart and rebuilt on the shores of the lake by UNESCO.  The whole production in Abu Simbel cost only $40 million dollars...only.  They're really well preserved because they were covered by sand for thousands of years.  You aren't allowed to take pictures inside but you can get an idea of the size of them from the outside.


After a long 4 hour ride back we bought food in the market to cook dinner and spent the evening at my flat.  They left this morning and I was back to work.  I still can barely talk and I feel like I've coughed up a lung today but the dust has gone and my homemade chicken noodle soup should help clear things up.  I'm also thinking that if this is the only sickness I've had here I'm doing pretty well.  Many people end up with stomach bugs and we all know what that can lead to so a sore throat isn't too bad as long as I don't cough up a lung...which feels like a real possibility right now.

Friday, January 16, 2009

I'm back!

The last month has been a busy one but I'm back to blogging (sorry to those of you who have been checking only to find my now month old post) and at work after two weeks off while my parents were visiting from Canada.

I'll start with work and end with the fun stuff...not that work isn't also fun!  Now in my fifth month in Egypt I can say I'm feeling more connected to life and my work here.  Relationship building in a new place always takes time but I feel like I'm slowly creating a place for myself at work and in my friendships both at work and otherwise.  The week after the feast holiday we took the kids on a small field trip to one of the islands in the Nile that has a botanical garden.  You'd think that living beside a river would mean that people would be fairly comfortable in a boat, but I realized that assumption was misguided as there were many nervous kids and adults whenever the boat was rocked by waves from some of the larger boats on the water.

The photo documentation of the kids stories has taken a bit longer than I thought to get up and running, but what has started to come in has been really great and has helped 
me to get to know the kids better and see the impact of the project over the past number of years.  It also looks like I'll be testing out my teaching abilities as some of the staff and older kids want me to start holding English lessons.  Schools in Egypt to teach English, but as in Canada with French, most people don't use it enough to actually learn and retain the ability to speak it well.  I think I'll be learning a thing or two about English grammar along the way too!

Now for the past two weeks that I spent with my parents.  They arrived late on New Years Eve and actually took the same flight from Cairo to Aswan as the director and accountant of EACID so they were well looked after for the last leg of their journey.  After getting back to my flat I got to open my Christmas presents...they actually had a whole suitcase just for me!  Even though I live in Aswan, we didn't actually spend much time here and by the second day we were packed up and off until the day my parents left for Canada.
  We started with a felucca trip down the Nile which didn't actually get very far because the winds meant we had to track back and forth across the river all day, only actually making it 10km downstream.  Despite the short distance we had a great time, ate well, and slept on the boat on a beach on the bank of the river. 

The next morning we were picked up and taken to Luxor, stopping in to see the temple at Edfu along the way.  We only spent one night in Luxor and spent the next day touring the we
st bank with Mohamed who is a wealth of knowledge when it comes to the hist
ory there.  He also invited us to eat with his family later in the afternoon and we spent the rest of our day with them and I now have an adoptive family in Luxor where I'm welcome to visit anytime.  Next on our itinerary after taking the night train to Cairo was the pyramids at Giza.  While some of the significance was lost since my lonely planet book was our only guide, they really are amazing to look at.  Before that day I had only seen them from afar when they looked like little minatures of the real thing.  

The next day we took an early morning flight to Sharm el Sheik where we were met by our guide for the next 3 days.  We drove to Dahab where we ate and collected supplies befo
re driving on the desert road to meet our camels who would be our transporta
tion for the next two days.   We met them in the middle of no where and after we packed up...and they snacked on the card board boxes that had been carrying our water...we were off into the wilderness of the Sinai desert.  

We stopped in a bedouin village and Naiomese tombs before setting up camp for the night.  Sleeping under the moon and stars was amazing, if not a little cold, and after 7 hours on the camels the next day I was ready to rest muscles I haven't used in awhile.  We
 left our camels and camelier in the desert and drove to Saint Catherines for a quick meal and then an early bedtime.  After only four hours of sleep we were awake and dressed for our hike up Mount Sinai with about a thousand othe
rs to watch the sunrise.  We were told that is is "scientifically the best sunrise in the world"...which we decided afterwards might be a slight exageration, but the novelty of seeing the sunrise from the top of Mount Sinai was worth it and was made even better by the fact that we were taken up the back way and were able to hike most of the way up and down all on our own.  
After coming down off the mountain we changed into clean clothes, had a good breakfast and then went to visit St. Catherine's monastery, said to be the oldest operating monastery in the world and the place that preserved the Christian faith through numerous attacks and persecution.  My dad was determined to actually talk to one of the monks there to ask if he could "borrow" his prayer beads as a gift for someone back home, but we had to settle on some from the monastery gift shop as the monks time was dominated by a greek couple who appeared to be there for the day.  Our trip then came full circle as we drove back to Dahab.  We had decided the day we arrived that an extra day there instead of in Cairo might be a good idea and it was well worth the $10 each to change our flights and relax in Dahab the next day.  Reading and relaxing on the beach and watching the sunrise over Saudi Arabia then next day was well worth it as we braced ourselves for returning to the chaos of Cairo.  We spent the next two and a half days in Cairo visiting the old Coptic Christian center of the city which contains churches and synagogues from the 3rd and 4th centuries, braving the bazar at the Khan al Khalili, and exploring the churches at Manshiet Nasr, or Garbage City, as it is sometimes more commonly known.  We also had dinner with Reem and Rachel who work for the project and live in Cairo.  My parents last night in Egypt was spent on the train back to Aswan where I took them to see the office, meet my coworkers and watch the sunset over the Nile.  We had a great dinner and then walked back through the bazar (much more calm that the one in Cairo) so my parents could pick up a few last things to bring back.  After repacking a few things we were off to the airport and they started their 24 hour journey back to Winnipeg.  Just like that I'm back on my own, and back to work.  It's been great to reconnect with people here.  Even the guys at the grocery store and vegetable stand have asked where I've been.

That pretty much sums up the last month or so.  Christmas came and went fairly uneventfully since people here don't celebrate until January 7th, but I did get to skype with my family while they opened presents on Christmas morning and talk to grandparents, aunts, uncles, and cousins while they were together to celebrate Christmas.  A year ago I never thought I'd be blogging from Egypt and the next months most likely take me place I can't yet imagine so stay tuned! ....I promise to be more regular with my updates!

Sunday, December 14, 2008

The holiday season

Another few weeks have passed so I figure it’s time for another update on goings on here in Egypt. Since my last post I’ve had a visit from my grandparents, made a little progress on my work here, and had a week holiday as most of the country celebrates the Eid el-Adha, the holiday on the Muslim calendar that is equal in significance to Christmas.

To start, I got to spend part of an evening with my grandparents while they made a brief stop in Aswan as part of a two-week tour of Egypt and Israel. While it was a short visit it was great to see people from home, as well as receive a hand delivered care package. While I appreciate any mail sent my way, this tops them all as amongst a few special requests I put in myself, my mom sent along a gingerbread house kit for me to put together. For anyone who is aware of this longstanding tradition in my family you’ll know how happy I was. I spend the better part of an evening putting this masterpiece together. It doesn’t really fit my current context, living in the desert, but it’s a little piece of home.

On the work side of things I’ve been able to work with a translator over the past few weeks and will continue to do so for the rest of my stay. My Arabic continues to improve (I think), but I obviously have a long way to go. She has been really great, not only for bringing more clarity to communication between myself and my coworkers, but also great enthusiasm and friendship. Since she has started it feels like there is a growing mutual understanding of the work we’re trying to do which should help things move along more smoothly in the next few weeks as well try and complete some of the stories we’re developing with the kids.

Leaving the best for last, I spent much of last week in a desert oasis in the far Northwest of the country. I traveled to Siwa, a small town on the edge of the Great Sand Sea, aka the Sahara Desert. An amazingly peaceful place on the edge of the desert I met up with friends, made new ones, and had a great time along the way. We spent a day in the desert, rented bikes to explore the oasis, and ate great food…way too much of it I might add.
me in the desert

Emily on top of the Shali ruins
Brianna and I in a very cold spring

Even the donkeys get to relax in Siwa

I'm now back at work in Aswan where it is much warmer than the desert.  I know I get no sympathy from those of you back in Canada, but my body has started to acclimatize and winter isn't so hot here, especially at night.  The next few weeks will be busy with work which will keep me busy as I count down the days until my parents arrive on the 31st!

Thursday, November 27, 2008

Another learning experience

Working at EACID I’ve been able to learn a lot about working directly with those receiving the benefits of international development assistance. Last week I was able to see another side of the development system when two representatives from CIDA (Canadian International Development Agency) came to visit the project. Richard and Reem were up from Cairo and we spent most of the morning on Saturday with Dr. Mamdouh, EACID’s director, and the CIDA reps. After that they heard from the kids who had put together a puppet show about the project and got a demonstration of the computer game that has been developed to teach kids business ethics before we all got into a taxi to visit some of the business that are receiving loans from EACID and who have children working there who participate in PPIC Work programming.

The evening had a more relaxed feel to it, we took a felucca ride at sunset which, even thought it was my third time, never disappoints. The difference this time was that the water level has dropped considerably and we had a small problem getting upstream at different points. One time we had to back the boat up and taking a running start but we made it with a little extra work from the motor.

The next morning’s meeting was more forward looking at the plans once the current project ends in June. I was also able to share the work I’ve started here with the photo documentation with a presentation from some of the kids and then an explanation of some of the steps were trying to take now. The visit ended on a very positive note and was quite successful. After all of the preparation I think it was a relief for some to hear the positive response. The principles of the project were really well received and continue to push into areas that many organizations don’t believe are possible to do with any level of success.

It is looking like I'll be around to see some of our activities through a little longer than expected.  Project activities will be wrapping up in June and the details are coming together for me to stay on a little longer than the original plan of finishing up my work at the end of January.

Wednesday, November 26, 2008

A weekend in Cairo

Two weekends ago I took a little trip to Cairo for a change of scenery and to see friends. It still blows my mind that I went to Cairo for the weekend, and talk about it like it is nothing out of the ordinary. While I went for the weekend, it is by no means close by. It took a little over 13 hours on the train, which probably sounds long and uncomfortable, but the sleeper trains that travel over night are quite comfortable and you can get a half decent sleep while saving a lot by not flying. Dinner and breakfast are included in the ticket and the beds were comfy. All in all, a good experience.

I arrived in Cairo, known as a chaotic, dirty, polluted and crowded, and found almost none of these things. The haze I remembered was still hanging over the city, and is a little worse at this time of year when the fields nearby are being burned, but the city had a feeling of relative calm and quiet. This is the beauty of a Friday morning in Egypt before noon time prayers after which the city really comes back to life. As well, the trip on the metro after leaving the train station and the short walk to Rachel's flat was familiar, lessening the feeling of chaos I often felt in my first few weeks here. After making a tentative plan for the day Rachel and I met Reem (another colleague who lives in Cairo) for breakfast. Reem took us to a little diner where we had an 'american' breakfast...bacon and eggs with hashbrowns and toast, and free refills on the coffee. Our next stop was al-Ahzar park for a potluck picnic for Carolyn, Akino, and Rike, friends who by tomorrow morning will all have left Egypt for the foreseeable future. Round two of the goodbye gatherings happened on the rooftop terrace of a downtown hotel, after which I fell right to sleep (the sleep on the train was good, but not that good).

Saturday we mixed a little work into the weekend and went to Doweika, where a week or so of training for new staff was wrapping up, but by Sunday I was back to exploring more of the city. Carolyn, Rachel and I visited the home of two of the n
ew staff in Doweika who later took us through their neighborhood to an amazing amphitheatre church carv
ed in to the mountain. The community in the area is about 80% Coptic Christian and it is also home to a group called the
 zabaleen, the community of people known to be some of the world's best recyclers, making it their daily work to collect the garbage of the city of 20 million, bringing it back to their home where it is sorted and recycled. While they do provide an important service to the city, they are often sorting decomposing materials in or just outside of their homes and they also have to live with the smell on a daily basis. Once we finished there I left Rachel and Carolyn and took the metro to Coptic Cairo to visit 3rd and 4th century churches in old cairo. It was the most hassle free tourism I had experienced so far I Egypt where you take a set of stairs down below street level and wander narrow passage ways finding small churches around corners and in small doors in the wall.

The last stop of the day before getting to the train station for my ride back was the grocery store, supplemented by Rachel’s fridge, for things that I haven’t been able to find in Aswan. Those of you who I traveled with in South Africa will understand why peanut butter has been a highlight of the week.

Sunday, November 9, 2008

A better picture

So my last few posts have been less than visually stimulating, mostly because my the internet connections I've been using haven't been strong enough to upload pictures...even at McDonalds (it's the only remotely western establishment here, it opened last spring...and offers free wireless and delivery). Hopefully this gives everyone a better picture, literally, of life in Aswan.
A shop in the market selling a variety of things 
including spices, dates, pumice, etc...
                                                             

One of the many horse and buggy combos around 
town, used for tourists and weddings

A man smoking sheesha from a water pipe...extremely 
bad for your health but a permanent part of cafe life

The produce stand where I buy 
my fruits and vegetables

Natasha, Reem, and I on a sunset felucca ride...normally
 I'd be smiling with my teeth but I've got a mouth full of cookie